With all of the new varieties this year and all of our favorites, our personal Vegetable Garden is the largest that we have ever planted. As of today we have 12 different Tomatoes, 15 Peppers including Chili Peppers, Eggplant, Squash, Beans, Onions, Leeks, Watermelons, Cucumbers, Beets and the list just goes on and on. Dan and I and the grand-kids have had a great time planting this year in pots and in the ground.

We will definitely have a bounty this year. How are your gardens coming along? Drop us a line and let us know.

Did you know that this year we are having a contest for the best garden- may it be for Vegetables or for Flowers. Just send us a picture of your garden and you may be the winner of $100.00 of free seeds for next year. You can send your pictures to custserv@2bseeds.com. The drawing will be August 31st 2010. Good Luck to all of you!!

Dan & Linda Busch
Owners of 2BSeeds

Growing your own Vegetable Garden

Gardening means different things to different people; for many of us they represent a place of controlling your own health and well-being. Some people enjoy going to their backyard or to their patios to calm their nerves after a day at their place of employment and we all know what that can be like on some days. Some people just like the peaceful environment, listening to the birds sing their songs praising the day.

Eating the foods from numerous plant families and groups can pay large dividends as providing a healthy balance to you or to your family’s diet. There isn’t any reason at all why some or most of your vegetables cannot be grown right in your own home garden, no matter what the size or shape. If you do not have a large yard to produce your vegetables, you can certainly do so with many containers used as a garden right on your patio. Beans of all types, and many other grains can provide a complete protein. Did you know that if you combine black beans and rice that you are getting a complete protein and amino acids? You can grow a broad range of greens, herbs and vegetables that you can eat both raw and cooked, and this will add the essential vitamins, minerals, and other important nutrients.

Even the smallest container garden can be full of things like parsley, chives, green leaf vegetables that can give your body a real health kick. Use another container for Pole beans, and yet another for tomatoes, one for onions, beets, and the list goes on and on. You can grow enough to provide your family with most of the food that they need for the
remainder of the year , as your options to save your vegetables can be to freeze or to can them.

For us eating a fresh salad is about as good as it gets. Now, we can have regularly a salad with dozens or more varieties of freshly picked leaves, which can be from spinach, lettuces, arugula to beets, cauliflower, cucumbers, onions, broccoli and just let your imagination go wild. We like to add peaches to our salads. You can also add carrots and tomatoes rich in vitamin C. You can always add protein from many different sources, like beef, chicken, and fish, or cheese and eggs.
Add some chilies to your salads, as they can add a spicy flavor, the chilies also offer the benefits of capsaicin, which is used for everything from lowering blood pressure to fighting infections.

There can be no better source of vitamins and minerals than from your own fresh vegetables and fruit. Did you know that many of the vitamins in vegetables are associated with color. For an example dark-green leafy vegetables such as collards, kale and spinach are rich in vitamins C and E, and in calcium. Orange and yellow vegetables, like carrots and winter squash , are rich in beta-carotene, which is a precursor of vitamin A. Tomatoes can also be an excellent source of vitamin C.

Lettuce, has a reputation as lacking in nutrition, however can provide a significant amount of vitamins, especially the dark green and red leafy types. Vegetables picked fresh from your own garden will provide vitamins and minerals in their most complete and vital form. Especially if we grow our own vegetables, we know that they are not contaminated with any pesticides or any other harmful ingredients.

Fall is an ideal time to grow vegetables that thrive in cool temperatures.
Vegetable crops can be classified into two basic categories – cool and warm season crops. What this means to you is that some plants thrive in the cool temperatures and short daylight hours of spring or fall and can survive light frosts, while others should be grown during the warmer, long days of summer.
If you are starting from seed, it is important to account for the number of days it will take for a plant to mature versus the first below freezing temperatures of the season.
For an example I will use broccoli , it will take about 55 ( the shortest amount of time) days before I can harvest them. The best way to know when to get these in the ground is to take your average frost date from above according to your zone and backup 55 days to plant them. However, this does not take into account the cooler and shorter days that need to be factored in. It would be better to come up with a date like the middle of September and back up from there. If you live in milder parts of the country such as the deep South or parts of California you can make this imaginary harvest date a little later. I use the days listed and add 7-10 days to that, to account for the shorter days and the cooler temperatures.

Estimated Frost Dates

Zone 3 – Sept 1st – 30th
Zone 4 – Sept 1st – 30th
Zone 5 – Sept 30th – Oct 30th
Zone 6 – Sept 30th – Oct 30th
Zone 7 – Oct 15th – Nov 15th
Zone 8 – Oct 30th – Nov 30th
Zone 9 – Nov 30th – Dec 30th
Zone 10 – Nov 30th – Dec 30th
Zone 11 – Frost Free

Another thing to keep in mind when planting your fall vegetables is that the seedlings require plenty of moisture. So keep them well watered until any rain that your area might have. Also, many of the leafy vegetables such as spinach and kale are heavy feeders so be generous with the vegetable safe fertilizer.
Dan & I like to grow certain cool season vegetables from seed, like arugula, spinach, and different types of lettuce that will germinate easily and mature quickly. Vegetables that are better started from seedlings (that are at least 6 weeks of age before transplanting outdoors) are broccoli, cabbage, kale and collard greens that you have prepared 4-6 weeks in advance. Transplants are an important issue for those who garden in the North where the fall season is shorter than those in the South. By using these seedlings (transplants) this will give you a head start. Look at our Planting Schedule at For more information.

Soil pH is a measurement of the number of Hydrogen ions present in the soil solution along with as the acidity of the soil.
When the soil pH is too acidic the nutrients that are present in the soil become locked-up or unavailable (low pH) or alkaline (high pH).

Correcting the pH has the same effect as applying fertilizer as it unlocks plant nutrients already present.
In your garden some garden plants thrive in acidic soils while others prefer an alkaline soil. The acidity or alkalinity of soil is a measurement by pH (potential Hydrogen ions). pH is a way to measure the amount of lime (calcium) contained in your soil, and the type of soil that you have.
A soil with a pH lower than 7.0 is an acidic soil and one with a pH higher than 7.0 is alkaline.
To Measure Soil pH
It is recommended that you use a relatively inexpensive, and follow the manufacturers instructions when testing the pH Level of your Gardens soil.
To raise or lower the pH level in the soil either Limestone or Sulfur is utilized.
Other materials will accomplish the same results; however the two that are listed are the most commonly used.

Limestone is added to the soil to raise the pH level because limestone is essentially calcium and calcium reacts with water in the soil to yield hydroxyl ions .. a process known as, hydrolysis = thus the pH level in the soil is raised.

Sulfur reacts with bacteria in the soil and produces sulfuric acid, which releases hydrogen ions thus causing the soil to become more acidic =the pH level is lowered.

Application Of Lime (To Raise Soil pH)

To increase your pH by 1.0 point and make your soil more alkaline.
Add 4 ounces of hydrated lime per square yard in sandy soils
Add 8 ounces of hydrated lime per square yard in loamy soils
Add 12 ounces of hydrated lime per square yard in clay soils
Add 25 ounces of hydrated lime per square yard in peaty soils
The addition of ash, bone meal, or crushed oyster shells will also help to raise soil pH levels.

Application of Sulfur (To Lower Soil pH)

If your soil needs to be more acidic, sulfur will lower the pH if it is available.
To reduce the soil pH by 1.0 point
Mix in 1.2 oz of ground rock sulfur per square yard if the soil is sandy
Mix in 3.6 oz per square yard for all other soils.
Composted leaves, wood chips, sawdust, leaf mold and peat moss, will also help to lower the soil pH.

Soil pH for Fruits and Vegetables
Most of all vegetables prefer a well-drained soil, rich in organic matter and slightly on the acidic side. A safe pH range for almost all vegetables is 6.0 to 6.5 pH. However as always there are exceptions to the rule. To obtain optimal results a more precise tracking and maintenance of soil pH will be required. This is not as difficult as one people would assume it to be. The pH requirements listed below give the maximum and minimum range, so as long as you stay within these parameters your success will improve.

Artichoke 6.5 -7.5
Asparagus 6.0 -8.0
Bush Beans 6.0 -7.5
Beets 6.0- 7.0
Broccoli 6.0 – 7.5
Brussels Sprouts 6.0 – 7.5
Cabbage 5.8 -6.2
Cantaloupe 5.5 -7.0
Carrots 5.5 – 7.5
Cauliflower 6.0 – 7.0
Celery 5.5 -6.5
Chicory 6.0- 7.5
Corn 5.5 -7.0
Cucumber 5.5 – 7.5
Eggplant 5.5 – 6.0
Garlic 5.5 – 7.5
Horse Radish 6.0 -7.0
Kale 6.0 – 7.5
Kohlrabi 6.0 – 7.5
Leek 6.0- 8.0
Lentil 5.5 – 7.0
Lettuce 6.0- 7.0
Mushroom 6.5- 7.5
Muskmelon 5.8 -6.2
Mustard 6.5 – 7.5
Onion 6.0 -7.0
Parsnip 5.5 -7.0
Peas 6.0- 7.5
Peanuts 5.0 -6.5
Peppers 5.5 -7.0
Potato 4.5 – 6.0
Potato-Sweet 5.5-6.0
Pumpkin 5.5-7.5
Radish 6.0-7.0
Raspberries 5.6 – 6.2
Rhubarb 6.0 – 6.8
Shallot 5.5 -7.0
Soy Bean 5.5 -6.5
Spinach 6.0- 7.5
Tomato 6.0 -6.8
Turnip 5.5-7.0
Watercress 5.0 -8.0
Watermelon 6.0 – 6.8

Soil pH for Common Flowers

Amaryllis 5.5 – 6.5
Baby’s Breath 6.5 – 7.0
Balsam 6.5 – 7.0
Begonia 5.5 – 7.5
Caladium 6.0 – 7.0
Candytuft 6.5 – 7.0
Canna 6.0 – 7.0
Carnation 6.5 – 7.0
Chrysanthemum 6.0 – 8.0
Cockscomb 6.0 – 7.5
Coleus 6.0 – 7.0
Cornflower 6.0 – 7.5
Cosmos 6.5 – 7.0
Daffodil 6.0 – 7.5
Dahlia 6.5 – 7.0
Day Lily 5.5- 7.0
Easter Lily 6.0 – 7.5
Four-O-Clock 6.0 – 7.5
Foxglove 6.5 – 7.0
Geranium 6.0 – 8.0
Gladiolus 6.5 – 7.0
Hollyhock 6.0 – 8.0
Iris 6.5 – 7.0
Larkspur 6.5 – 7.0
Lupine 6.5 – 7.0
Marigold 6.0 – 7.5
Nasturtium 6.5 – 7.0
Narcissus 6.0 – 7.5
Pansy 6.5 – 7.0
Petunia 6.5 – 7.0
Phlox 5.0 – 6.0
Poppy 6.5 – 7.0
Salvia 6.0 – 7.0
Shasta Daisy 6.0 – 8.0
Snapdragon 6.0 – 7.5
Sweet Alyssum 6.5 – 7.0
Sweet pea 6.5 – 7.0
Sweet William 6.5 – 7.0
Tuberose 6.0 – 7.0
Tulip 6.0 – 7.0
Verbena 6.0 – 8.0
Zinnia 5.5 – 7.5

Good Seed Germination Starts With Great Seeds!

At 2BSeeds we can assure you that you are getting the best seed available and the highest quality seed in each of our packages. We buy from the best suppliers and breeders, we pre-test all of our seed in house and by an independent laboratory before packing and shipping to you, and we only accept seeds that exceed USDA standards. Some of the most common reasons for failure to germinate are:

Moisture levels are inconsistent – Do keep soil damp and cover with plastic or with a clear tray until germination. After you have sown your seeds and they begin to absorb water, even a short period of moisture inconsistency can stop germination.

Incorrect depth – Some seeds need a generous 1” of soil covering them in order to sprout (like beans). Others should not be covered at all and should only be lightly pressed into the soil, because light must reach them to induce germination. It is also possible to plant seeds to shallow as well. Some seeds germinate best when they are well covered and in darkness. However – a rule to consider is the smaller the seed, the more light it may need for germination or it should be planted closer to the soil line. With that said, there are still exceptions to this, for instance Pansies should be covered lightly with a vermiculate type covering. Just remember that there is always an exception. It’s easy to sow at incorrect depths during the spring planting frenzy. Watch your seed planting depths for the best results.

Fungus – Damping Off – At some time or another every gardener will eventually be confronted with this fungal problem! Seeds will simply rot in the soil and not germinate at all, or they will sprout thin little stems and simply fall over and die. This disease can rapidly wipe out an entire plug tray in a very short time. To prevent this problem the first thing to do is to use clean pots and trays for planting. If you want to reuse containers from the previous season, make sure to wash them extremely well first with a 10% bleach solution (9 parts water, 1 part bleach). Never use garden soil from your yard to start seeds with. It can likely contain fungus spores. Only use sterile seed starting soil from your local garden center. After sowing your seeds, be careful to keep your soil moist but do not over water. If possible, water from below by pouring water into the tray. The air circulation in your home is also an important prevention for your seeds. Have a small fan around the plug tray, and keep it blowing on ‘low’ during the day. Have it circulating around the flat, but not blowing directly on it as it could dry out the soil too quickly. And one last note, if you have sown a lot of seeds in a small amount of space, absolutely thin out the seedlings when too many sprout. Because if they are too close, the tiny stems are a moist jungle for fungal growth.

Light Requirements – Make sure to keep your grow lights on for at least 14-16 hours. This is important because artificial light is not as strong as sunlight, as some seeds need intense light exposure to germinate. Conversely, some seeds will only sprout in darkness. Be sure to cover them to the recommended depth, and turn your grow light on as soon as you see sprouts. Adjust your light height as the plants grow. Seedlings should be almost touching your grow light, and never more than 2” away from it. When they start to stretch, they are telling you that they are not getting enough light.

Temperature –If your plug trays are close to a sunny window, make sure to monitor them carefully so they do not bake in the heat and dry out. Most seeds require a specific temperature range for germination to occur. Pepper and tomatoes for instance, mostly are easy to grow, will do better with a heat mat underneath until they sprout. And sweet peas will grow better in a cooler room that is only 55-65 degrees.

Hard Seed Coat –Morning Glories and Sweet Peas are a few of the seeds that have hard seed coats and require scarification. They have a hard shell for protection, and to keep them viable. Normally the weather conditions of winter and early spring help to break down this coat naturally. There are two easy methods that you can get these ready for germination, you can soak them for 24 hours or nick them with a file before planting where as to weaken the seed coat.

Perennials Need a Cold Treatment –Perennial seeds require the fluctuating temperature to be cold and moisture to germinate. In most cases, what you can do is do a little faux winter. It is not really necessary for the seed to spend the cold months in the ground, as long as it thinks it did. This deception can easily be performed by placing the seeds in a small container with moist (not wet) sand, peat or vermiculite, and leaving it in a refrigerator for four to six weeks.

Sowing Your Seeds

Starting seeds can be a very rewarding activity and even trying to germinate some of the more challenging seeds can be done if you
find out which techniques should be used.

If certain basic conditions are met, most annual and
vegetable seeds do not require special treatment to achieve
good germination. Some seed takes longer to
germinate than others. If sowing times seem wide, remember
that many factors will affect the growth of the plants and desired
planting dates will vary based on your area. To get a more exact
sowing date, first find your frost-free date, which is the
approximate date of your area’s last spring frost. Then back up
the number of weeks required to grow the transplants to get the
sowing date.

Different seeds have various needs in order to germinate. Some seeds need light (press seed on top of the soil) or darkness (generally plant to the depth of
the seed size) for optimum germination.

There are a number of varieties that are more difficult to
germinate than others. These seeds will often have poor or
even no germination unless a strict regimen is followed. Very
small seeds such as petunia are often available pelleted.

This process coats each seed to make it for the consumer
easier to handle and germinate faster. The extra cost is
definitely worth it. Small seed that is not pelleted needs to be
carefully tapped from the packet and gently pressed into the
soil.

Seeds with a hard seed coat need to be nicked or soaked to achieve
good germination. This is done in 2 different ways. Smaller
seed can be soaked in water 24 hours before sowing to soften
the seed coat to allow for germination. Larger seeds need their
coating gently scratched without harming the interior parts. This
is known as scarification. While in natural conditions this coat
would eventually be broken down, the impatient gardener can
speed the process by using a knife or file to make a shallow cut.
This allows moisture to enter and the seed to germinate.

There are some varieties, particularly perennials that need to
be put into the refrigerator prior to sowing to break dormancy.
This process is called stratification where by the seeds are
tricked into thinking they are experiencing winter. It isn’t really
necessary for the seed to spend the cold months in the ground,
as long as it thinks it did. This can easily be done by placing
the seeds in a small container with moist (not wet) sand,
peat or vermiculite, and leaving in a refrigerator for four to
six weeks.

Not all plants can be started indoors; some don’t like to be
transplanted at all and their seeds must be sown directly
into the garden.

You can use just about any container to start seeds as long as it
is at least 3″ deep to allow for the roots to grow.

You can use Yogurt cups, plastic take-out containers or margarine tubs.
You can save any cell packs and trays you get from the nursery. All
containers should have holes in the bottom for drainage. It
is wise to disinfect all containers with a mild bleach
solution. You will also need a rimmed tray to set your
containers in.

For simplicity, you can use peat pellets, which
are a growing container and planting medium in one.
When soaked in water, the pellets grow to seven times their
size. These pellets can be planted directly in the garden
when the seedlings are ready.

It is best not to use the soil from your garden.
Not only is it too heavy and provides poor
drainage, you can run the risk of bringing in weeds and garden
soil may host some disease organisms detrimental to your
seedlings. There was a time that gardeners sterilized their
garden soil in the oven to use for their seeding, but that is a
very tedious and smelly chore. It is best to use a
commercially prepared soil-less mix, which can be found
almost everywhere. These mixes usually contain sterilized
peat moss, vermiculite and perlite. They are light in texture
and retain large quantities of moisture while still being well
drained.

The general rule for seed starting is to start seeds warm and
grow seedlings cool. Don’t try to germinate your seeds on the windowsill.
The outdoor temperatures will make this area too cool. Most seeds are
genetically programmed to germinate only in warm soil.
You can keep the seed trays consistently warm by placing
them on top of a water heater or refrigerator. Fluorescent
lighting also can keep the soil warm. If your area is quite
cool, a seedling heat mat may be your best option.
Seeds need to be constantly moist in order to
germinate. Do not let the growing mixture dry out or get too
wet. Moisten the growing mix thoroughly before sowing. Stir
the mixture with your hands to distribute the moisture. After
the seeds are sown, place a humidity dome or plastic wrap over
your container to slow evaporation. Check every day for signs
of germination and remove the cover as soon as you see a
sprout so that the air can circulate around the emerging
seedlings. Water with a fine spray of warm water or from the
bottom.

Lack of light is probably the number one reason
people get discouraged. Seedlings need 14 – 16 hours of light
from the moment they germinate. They also need at least 8
hours of darkness to process their food and grow. Growing
seedlings on a windowsill is not recommended, as they will
stretch toward the light. If the windowsill is your only option,
turn the containers daily so they don’t have to stretch and reach
for the light. You will know if your seedlings need more light if
they are pale and weak.

Fluorescent lighting or grow lights are your best option. Even if
you don’t have a store-bought stand, one can be made with a
cast-off fixture, some cedar or treated lumber, screws, nails and
cords. The best growth will occur under the maximum light you
can provide. Mix the types of bulbs used since the cool white
provides light in the blue/green range and encourages leaf
growth, while a grow light or warm light provides light in the red
range which encourages flowering. This way you have a full
spectrum of light. Replace the bulbs yearly, as the light intensity
decreases significantly even in the first few months of use.
Keeping bulbs longer doesn’t save money compared to the
poorer growth of the plants. Get your plants as close to the
light as possible by putting the lights on adjustable chains
keeping them 2 – 4 inches above the tops of seedlings. Move
the light fixtures up as the seedlings grow.

The new seedlings need additional space to
grow as soon as their first “true” leaves appear. It may seem
heartless, but the weakest and spindliest seedlings need to be
cut off at soil level so that the strongest ones can get stronger.
If your seeding is rather dense, do not pull out unwanted
seedlings as their roots may be tangled up and damage the root
of the seedling remaining.

At this point it is a good idea to place a fan around your plants.
This will make their stems sturdier and get them prepared for
for the outdoors. As well, good air circulation will keep
moulds and mildews at bay.
If you did your planting in individual containers, transplanting may not
be necessary before you set them outside.
Seedlings in seed flats need to be transplanted
into 4″ containers by the time you have 4 true leaves. This
will give your seedlings more room to grow, stimulate the
feeder roots and improve ventilation. To transplant, hold
the seedling by its’ leaves, not the delicate stem. With a
butter knife, spoon or fork, gently cut around the seedling
root and lift up. Place into a pre-moistened container,
slightly deeper than they were in their flats. Firm soil
around the seedlings, water immediately.
After transplanting, fertilize once a week
with transplant fertilizer or a half-strength well balanced
fertilizer. After about 3 weeks you can start fertilizing at full
strength. Over-fertilization can result in leggy seedlings. If
your seedlings are starting to look leggy, pinch back the
growing tips to promote more branching. This can be
repeated every week or so to promote compact, bushy
plants.

Hardening off is basically getting your young plants ready for their new
Home, the great outdoors.
There are many different ways this can be accomplished. At least
a week before you plan to set the plants into the ground
they need to gradually get used to the sun, wind and
various outdoor temperatures. A cold frame, which is a
sheltered unheated box with a translucent cover is the best
means for this transitional period. The lid can be gradually
raised to expose the plants to more sunlight.
These unprotected plants will have to
be brought back indoors each night unless you know it is
going to stay above 50°F/10°C all night long.

If you have followed the directions above, your seed starting should be
relatively trouble free. There are however, a couple of
problems that may creep up on you. INSECTS: spray
insecticidal soap on spider mites, aphids or whiteflies as
soon as they appear. DISEASE: Using clean containers and
soil-less mixtures should keep diseases at bay. A common
disease is Dampening Off, which is a fungus that attacks the
plant at the soil line. With all this is mind, your experience should
be fun and rewarding.

In difficult economic times, it makes great sense for anyone who has the space to turn some of that space into a vegetable garden. Purchasing produce is probably one of the most expensive things we buy in the grocery store, and how fresh is it anyway? In addition, if you go to a Farmer’s Market to buy your veggies keep in mind that they are also making a profit from your purchase, so by growing it yourself; you will eliminate the middleman and save substantial amounts of money.
One thing that you should consider is your soil. What kind of soil do you have and does it need to be amended? An excellent and inexpensive way to amend your soil is to create a compost area and use the compost you have created in that heap where you throw food scraps. Once it has had the chance to get sufficiently hot so the food scraps and other materials can degrade, you will have some rich and organic compost. The next thing you will need to determine is the zone you live in as this will determine the length of your growing season and when you can sow seeds directly into the ground or when you can plant your actual plants in the ground. If you live anywhere where there is frost potential, you will have to wait until the danger of frost is past. You can find a zone map here. Although you may have to wait until anytime from March to May to plant your veggies in the ground, you do not have to wait to get started. If you want to grow things from seed, you should plan to start your seeds at least ten weeks before you will plant the plants in the ground. When to Plant Vegetable Seeds
Whenever I’m deciding what to plant in my vegetable garden, I consider what things I really love and couldn’t afford unless I grew them myself. Those things receive top priority. Snow peas, sugar snap peas, leeks, red, yellow and orange peppers, and Brussels sprouts always make my list. I also put tomatoes, lettuce and herbs on that list
To save space, I would try to train all of my crops that grow on vines to grow straight up.
Canning and freezing are another way to extend your harvest and they will keep you in vegetables during the winter months. I like to make my own pasta sauces, and because I am not an experienced canner, I freeze them. Ideally, I’d rather can as much as I can. Canning frees up freezer space for other things.
I use companion planting as a way to repel pests and attract beneficial insects. Tomatoes benefit greatly from being planted around or near basil, nasturtiums and marigolds. I use the basil for pasta sauce, but I also make pesto from it.
Squash is another great thing to grow. I love acorn squash and it is a wonderful high fiber and highly nutritious vegetable to eat in the winter months. It also keeps quite well. Butternut squash makes great soup. Zucchini is great for bread and cookies, but it also makes a great substitute for lasagna noodles in vegetarian lasagna.
The more vegetables you can grow for yourself, the more money you will save. If you grow them from seed and can start them in a warm and bright place at least ten weeks before you plan to plant them outside, you will save greatly by not having to buy plants. Now that our economy seems so volatile and uncertain, one thing that can assure homeowners that their food source is secure is growing as much of their own vegetables as possible. Although it will be a lot of blood, sweat, tears and just plain hard work, the rewards will be worth everything, and you will feel the most amazing sense of satisfaction and accomplishment

Tomatoes Have Issues Too!

One of America’s most popular summer hobbies is growing tomatoes. But for all those millions who have participated in this annual summer ritual, there is always the potential heartbreak of insects or disease.

The first step to any solution is to diagnose the problem in a timely manner, which is why it is important to regularly monitor your tomatoes for pests and disease.

Insects that commonly attack tomatoes include tomato hornworms, whiteflies and aphids. Diseases that can infect tomato plants include early blight and blossom end rot. These are just some of the insects and diseases that can turn your summer garden from an adventure to a disappointment.

Tomato hornworms are large caterpillars that have horn-like protuberances. They feed on tomatoes, mercilessly stripping leaves from stems and eating unripe tomatoes. One way to reduce the possibility of hornworms is to loosely wrap a piece of aluminum foil around the lower few inches of the stem, at the ground, to prevent hornworms from crawling up. Once hornworms attack, they can be removed by hand or controlled by insecticides.

Aphids and whiteflies are insects that both cause tomato leaves to turn yellow. Both leave a telltale secretion called honeydew, making the tomato plant leaves sticky and shiny. Small infestations will not cause significant problems, but larger infestations may require insecticidal soap to bring them under control.

Besides insects, tomato plants may develop one of several common diseases. One of the more common is early blight, whose symptoms become more obvious as the temperatures become hotter. This fungus causes large dark spots on older leaves, but can sometimes spread to stems and fruit. Leaves may turn yellow and drop. This fungus can be spread by overhead irrigation or planting too closely. It is imperative to remove all diseased plant material and throw it in the trash as the fungus can over-winter and withstand the heat of compost piles. Good garden sanitation and crop rotation are the best controls.

Blossom end rot begins as light brown, watery sores on the blossom end of the fruit. These sores grow larger and turn black and leathery. It is generally thought that a combination of excessive temperature and water fluctuations cause blossom end rot. When these circumstances occur at the same time, the plant may develop a calcium deficiency during fruit formation. To prevent blossom end rot, try to provide consistent moisture, mulch to reduce moisture fluctuations, and avoid planting until there is no possibility of frost and daytime temperatures are at least in the 60s.

COLOR CATEGORY

Green Vegetables Rich in carotenes, especially lutein and zeaxanthin.
Artichoke
One choke has 6½g of fiber, and a powerful cancer fighter called silymarin. Start early by 8-10 weeks indoors before transplanting outside.

Arugula

Sharp taste is from idoles which detoxify cancer causing chemicals.Easy to grow, ready to harvest 30-40 days from seed.

Broccoli

Broccoli is the best source of cancer fighting sulforaphane, plus 60% of Vitamin C in only one-half Cup. Broccoli does not like intense summer heat, so it is best to plan for a spring or fall crop-or both.

Brussels Sprouts

According to research eating these sprouts may decrease lung and colon cancer. Active ingredients, indoles and vitamin C (81%) in a half cup cooked.Frost or Cool weather sweetens these morsels of health, so leave them on the stalk when the first frost arrives.

Green Beans

Great source of fiber and they are loaded with every vitamin and mineral. All are rich in bone-preserving vitamin K, cancer fighting indoles and Vitamin C.Pick as soon as ready and keep picking as this stimulates production, if not picked they will go to seed and will stop producing.

Greens(collards, kale, chard)

Collards are high in calcium Tenderize by cutting off the tough stem and lightly steam before sautéing or stir-frying.

Lettuce

By using only 2 C of Romaine you will satisfy 45% of Vitamin C daily requirements.So easy to grow from seed, they like the cooler weather, so plan for a spring and fall crop.

Peas
Snap or Snowpeas

Impressive 64% of Vitamin C in only one-half cup.Tender and sweet, they really do not need cooking, just throw them in for a minute or two before turning the heat off.

Peppers-Sweet

Red and yellow are extra rich in Vitamin C, (144% of the daily requirements). The older they get, the richer they are in C.If left on the vine, a green pepper will turn red.

Peppers-Hot

Capsaicin the antioxidant compound that gives these peppers their fire, battles both heart disease and cancer.Cover hands with gloves when chopping.

Spinach

Spinach has two heart savers, magnesium and folic acid. Plant early and you shall have more. Work around its day-length sensitivity as it will go to seed during the long days of summer. Plant in March and or August.

Green Herbs
Basil

Basil has monoterpenoids, compounds that detoxify cancer causing chemicals and kill tumor cells.By trimming off the flowers you will get more production of the leaves.

Chives

Like onions and garlic, chives contain health promoting allylic sulfur compounds.Do not cook, these are best used fresh.

Dill

Contains limonene, which helps prevent cancer by disarming cancer causing chemicals.Plant thick and close together, do not thin these plants, as they use each other to stand up.

Mint

Contains menthol, which fights the inflammation of muscles and arthritis pain and kills oral bacteria that leads to the cause of dental plaque.Steep a few sprigs in water for your tea.

Oregano

Contains monoterpenes which helps in preventing cancer by detoxifying the cancer causing chemicals.A little of this herb goes along way, so watch your portions.

Parsley

Only a quarter cup covers one third of Vitamin C, and 100% of Vitamin K, add this to it’s calcium prevention of osteoporosis. Use generously and take advantage of its high nutrition.

Rosemary

Flavor is from carsonol and rosmarinic acid which helps fight breast and lung cancer per study articles. This herb likes its dry, so plant higher so you achieve good soil drainage.

Yellow/Orange Vegetables/ Fruit Rich in carotenes, especially beta-carotene.
Carrots
By eating carrots 2-3 week- research has shown this lowers the risk for certain cancers, and by drinking carrot juice it helps reduce the LDL “bad” cholesterol.Plant at the end of July or late October in warmer climates, for a fall crop in addition to spring.

Sweet Potatoes

Per one-half cup you get 3g of fiber and 40% of Vitamin C.Sweet Potatoes are NOT Yams, as sweet potatoes have orange or reddish flesh and are grown in the US, where as Yams are yellow in flesh and grow in the tropics.

Pumpkins

These seeds are a great source of magnesium, which is the winner of bone and heart health.
If you want to grow a BIG Pumpkin, trim off all the shoots and keep just the one vine that is attached to the pumpkin. Water and fertilize regularly. Start the planting the second week of June for a Pumpkin in October. Halloween.

Squash

Great source of fiber. 4g per half cup. Soften the skin by baking in ½ inch of water for about 20 minutes, then remove pulp from skin.

Cantaloupe

One cup of cubed gives you over 100% of Vitamin C.How do you tell if it is ready to pluck? Press your thumb on the spot where the fruit is attached to the vine, and if it slips right off, it is ready.

Deep Red/Purple Vegetables Rich in anthocyanins
Beets
17% of Folic acid in one-half cup.Pick young for sweetness and tenderness.

Eggplant

In studies the eggplant extracts destroyed free radicals, which are molecules that can trigger cancer and heart disease. Brush eggplant with olive oil and grill.

Radishes

Radishes flavors go from cool to hot because when chewing it releases the sharp tasting cancer fighters, indoles and isothiocyanates. Longer time in the ground results in hotter taste.

Bright Red Vegetables/Fruit Rich in lycopene
Tomatoes

All colors are vitamin C rich, 40% in tomato, 48% in cherry tomatoes. Orange varieties are higher in beta-carotene and lower in lucopene.Plant in succession planting one or more varieties in each class, early, middle and late summer.

Watermelon

Supplies a quarter of daily requirements of Vitamin C, in a quarter cup.Requires a lot of water.

White/Light Green Vegetables
CabbageAll Chinese types and
Pak Choi, Bak Choy

By eating Cabbage, research shows my protect against cancer, probably due to its indoles, also high in Vitamin C. Great in stir-fry’s and salads.

Cauliflower

Contains important cancer fighters, isothiocyanates, indoles and Vitamin C, per one-half cup.To keep white, cover heads while small with leaves and attach rubber bands to keep covered.

Onions

Rich in allylic sulfur compounds and guercitin, a heart and cancer fighting compound. Plant in early spring.

Celery

Containes phthalides which lower blood pressure and cholesterol.Home grown Celery is a Green robust color, nothing like the weak colors found in the grocery store.

Corn

Yellow corn is high in the eye protectors lutein and zeaxanthin.Sugar enhanced varieties are easiest to grow.

Cucumbers

Keep on the skin when serving for fiber and Vitamin K.To minimize seeds, plant the seedless type or pick the seed type early before they grow wide.

Starting Your Herb Garden
How to Grow Herbs
First decide on the size; this will depend on the number of varieties you choose to grow. A kitchen garden can be planted into individual 12×18″ pots, or into windowboxes where you can easily snip them with abandon when you fire up the stove or dress a salad. You will find that herbs yield abundant harvests all season if you tend to thier basic need for good fertile soil and adequate moisture.An important factor in growing successful herbs is good drainage. A light well drained soil is best for starting seeds indoors, be careful not to cover the seeds to deeply with soil. Keep the seeds moist during germination and water with a fine spray to prevent washing away of the soil.Select a south or west window when growing herbs indoors. You can use grow lamps or fluorescent lamps to supplement the light. When planting, mix 2 parts potting soil and 1 part coarse perlite, there should be an inch of gravel on the bottom of each container to ensure good drainage. Highly fertile soil will produce excessive amounts of foliage with poor flavor.

Harvesting Herbs
Drying and Storage of Herbs
Most herbs are at their peak flavor just before flowering, so this is a good time to collect them for drying and storage. Cut off leaves at the stems, with cold water rinse off any soil and dust, wash herbs thoroughly, then place them on absorbent towels or hang plants upside down in sunlight until all water evaporates. Strip leaves off the stalks once plants have drained and dried, remove all blossoms. Herbs MUST be completely dried before storage. Herbs with high moisture, such as mints and basils need rapid drying or they will mold. To retain some green leaf coloring, dry in the dark by hanging plants upside down in bunches in paper bags. Hanging leaves down allows essential oils to flow from stems to leaves. Tie whole stems very tightly in small bunches, individual stems will shrink and fall. Hang in a dark, warm, 70 to 80 degree F well-ventilated area. Leaves are ready when they feel dry and crumbly in 1-2 weeks. Once you are sure that the herbs are completely dry, place them in the airtight containers, and store them in a cool, dry place away from light. Never use paper or cardboard containers for storage as they will absorb the herbs aromatic oils.